I’m on a broccoli-cooking spree, and final week, I used to be mesmerized by a complete head of chartreuse-colored romanesco — the whirling, psychedelic, fantastically repetitive construction. When I posted it to Instagram, the cookbook writer Domenica Marchetti known as it “the M.C. Escher of greens,” and the journalist Julia O’Malley instructed me she refers to it as “acid broccoli.” Good descriptions, I assumed.
Plain previous inexperienced broccoli has much less apparent visible curiosity, but it surely’s nonetheless a outstanding vegetable. I imply, each head is a cluster of teeny-tiny inexperienced flower buds held on thick, juicy stems — a marvel! You’ll be able to toss the florets right into a pot of stovetop mac and cheese, letting then soften straight into the sauce, or purée them till tremendous easy, virtually creamy, for a vegan soup, vibrant with fennel and dill.
And due to the airiness of the florets, all that area between the buds, you may as well get broccoli splendidly crisp. Roast it on actually excessive warmth, in a single layer, to brown the stems and frizzle the ends. You’ll be able to gown that broccoli merely, and have it as a aspect, or, use it to make Ali Slagle’s scrumptious new grain bowl with nooch dressing. The dietary yeast provides the sauce a mellow, tacky taste, and the powdered garlic suggestions it virtually into ranch dressing territory. I favored it with farro, however you need to use wheat berries or quinoa, too.
In case you’re ever left with any uncooked broccoli stems, slice and sauté them. You’ll be able to snack on these as is, or you possibly can toss them in all the things bagel seasoning and add them to a bowl of scrambled eggs on rice for breakfast the following day.
Let’s transfer on to broccoli rabe. I find it irresistible a lot, but it surely isn’t associated to broccoli — it isn’t a brassica in any respect! It’s a turnip selection, which explains its slight pungency, its fringe of bitterness. It’s additionally why it does rather well with somewhat additional fats and sweetness.
Take this gorgeous, simple dish, the place it’s braised in a number of olive oil with chickpeas, for instance. Or Melissa Clark’s garlicky beans with broccoli rabe, the place crimson onion is cooked slowly, till it’s golden, sweetening the greens. (The recipe requires an electrical stress cooker, however in the event you don’t have one, simply simmer the beans on the stovetop till they’re tender.)
One Extra Factor!
Are you sick of me happening and on about mushrooms? Nicely I’m sorry, however I noticed Bettina Makalintal’s cool story about squishing her mushrooms, and now I wish to inform everybody I learn about it, together with you.
Bettina cooks oyster mushrooms or maitakes — any selection with what she calls a extra frilly form — in a cast-iron skillet with a second pan on prime. This presses the mushrooms down in opposition to the recent floor, getting them superbrown and crispy-edged. So good!
Thanks for studying the Veggie, and see you subsequent week.